Sunday, April 18, 2010

Home (Nathan)

And I thought 500 miles was a big day. I rode 860 miles -- 1,384 kilometres -- yesterday. After nearly two weeks away, I wanted to see my wife, and figured if I rode hard enough, I could pull it off. It was a big day, though. Thirteen and a half hours of riding, including a few short breaks to keep me from falling asleep at the handlebar. The last half was anxiety-ridden, given that my bike has developed a third problem (1: it drinks oil; 2: it eats tires, and had bad ball bearings, which necessitated an emergency replacement en route). Now three: it produces an awful banging sound when accelerating at low speeds, which is replaced by a worrisome knocking at higher speeds. I'm sure it should not have been ridden in this condition, but I wanted to get home, and gritted my teeth.

Oh, and I found rain, too. It took quite literally 4,800 miles of riding, but I found rain. Luckily for me, it was a very light drizzle, and it lasted less than an hour. I didn't so much as get wet. Hats off to Brett for riding through the downpour, though.

Grand total for mileage ridden on the trip: 5,095 miles, or 8,200 kilometres. Add to that the 1,600 kms in the van, and I covered over 6,000 miles, or nearly 10,000 kilometres, in 13 days. I've done big road trips before, but this is a new record for me.

I will be submitting a travel article on this trip to the Globe and Mail, where I am a reporter. Here, however, is a rough preview of the ending, which I cobbled together after my arrival last night:

"So why do this? I found myself asking that question on the last day of the trip. I was nearing the end of a 1,400-kilometre day of riding, a seemingly endless march from Oregon home to Calgary. My shoulders were aching. My backside had passed pain into numb. My motorcycle, which I had bought with much excitement just weeks before the trip, had become an albatross. Still hours from home, and the oil reservoir was half-empty, thanks to the bike's unfortunate thirst. Worse, it had developed a horrible banging sound, and appeared to be ready to leave me stranded on the side of the road at any time.

 

It was, in short, a recipe for misery.

 

But then I looked around. I had crossed into Alberta, and the sun was setting, leaving the clouds and the Rockies, which lined the western horizon, doused in a dusty purple. The day's last light danced across the dun-coloured foothills. Cattle grazed. A fox dug for something in a ditch. The road stretched out before me, long and straight. I was alone, and could feel the chill of a crosswind blowing over a lake still partly frozen. It was familiar scenery, but seeing it from a motorcycle gave it a new intimacy. I couldn't quite suppress a thought: it would be nice if this didn't have to end."

Saturday, April 17, 2010

Vancouver

Thankfully once I got on the road it started to rain. Rain makes for
excellent motorcycling--slippery rodes, reduced visibility, and makes the
rider colder faster.

After pulling over to put all my gear on I discovered the problem... My
boots let in too much air. An excellent feature during most of our trip
when it was hot but not excellent as the water got in along with the air
chilling my feet.

Solution--a vapor barrier. Foot goes next to plastic bag which is covered
over w/ a sock. No moisture or cold air on the foot.


I'm happy to report that SPITFUK and I are home! I finally made it only to
be locked out... I didn't bring my key nor did I tell my wife when I would
be home. An oversight on my part, but I have a good book and a nice
courtyard to sit in...

Nathan is traveling - he got 300 miles under his belt before 10 AM. We
split ways this AM..

Nathan doesn't have a map of how to get from Portland to Calgary...
Reason--he doesn't need one.

I called him SPIDEY (after Spiderman) on this trip because of his amazing
ability to find a hotel, campground or anything else we were looking for...

I'm sure his sense of direction is guiding him onto the best roads for his
trek back.

Make sure to keep Spidey in your thoughts and prayers til he arrives home
tommorrow...

You may ask - would you do it again?

Yes, actually I am planning a trip called KIDS IN THE RIDE. Where I
motorbike to Alaska and kids and wife come along in SUV... Who knows what
the future brings... Although I think my bum needs a few days rest.


Thanks for all the support and for sharing our journey.

30 miles from Portland (Brett)

We had a stop that took some time for repairs... I'll let Nathan discuss
this.

Last PM we got to within 30 miles of Portland and arranged for a hotel
around 9 PM. On the road total for over 12 hours..

Amazing scenes--Redwoods, Oregon coast, small farms... 524 miles driven.

We had late night snack and Nathan just left for his 870+ mile push to get
home (2 days).

I have 360 miles to go... Time to get on the road. In case you don't
know., we are both road weary...

Can't wait to see wife and kids!

Friday, April 16, 2010

Earthquake! (Nathan)

We had the perfect campsite. Covered in grass. Quiet. Metres from a cliff
overlooking the ocean. Amazing.
The signs said "unstable cliff" but that seemed overly cautious.

Until this morning. Just after 530, I was lying in my sleeping bag when my
head started shaking. Couldn't quite figure it out - until I realized it
must be an earthquake. Just a minor one, except for that cliff. What if it
gave way? Should I hop out?

No damage done, though. It was pretty cool to feel though.

Dream day (Nathan)

If you asked a guy with a motorcycle to describe the perfect day, you'd end
up with a description of what we did for 12 hours yesterday.

We started at Big Sur, one of the most beautiful stretches of the
California coast line, and rode north to San Francisco. Crossed the Golden
Gate bridge, then entered the wild roads that head north from there.
Picture a DNA helix laid flat across a steep mountain range and you get a
sense for what the road looked like. Actually, keep that picture in mind,
because it happens to describe pretty much our entire day. From the Golden
Gate we headed east for a brief detour to Santa Rosa, where my bike needed
an emergency chain repair that took about 5 minutes, cost me a case of
Corona, and made it clear that if I would learn the first thing about
elementary motorcycle repair, I wouldn't have emergencies like this one.

Either way, from Santa Rosa it was north up a massive hill climb to highway
20, which heads back to the coast over 36 miles. I'm not sure if anyone has
counted, but it would not surprise me if there are 500 corners in that
stretch, many of them scary sharp. The ones posted 25 mph - 40 kph - were
the nice easy ones, if that means anything to anyone. Many of them were
total screamers, the kind you enter madly downshifting until the bike is
revving high and your speed is bleeding off. Often, it's not enough, but
you never realize it until it's too late. So you rag on the brakes for a
brief panicked moment, then lean hard, hoping your bike doesn't tip over
far enough that things start scraping. And, since most of the corners are
blind, you also hope that there's no one in your lane on the other side,
and that it's free of rocks or gravel - which, when you're turning hard -
are the equivalent of ice on the road. Then, assuming it's all gone well,
you hit the end of the curve with a quick snort of the throttle, smile, and
lean into the next one.

I kid you not: I'm pretty sure we repeated that scene a thousand times
today, if not more. It was an unbelievable day.

Then tonight, tents on the edge of a cliff overlooking the ocean. It sounds
like a peaceful Iraq out there with the surf crashing in.

I had a thought today: how exactly am I going to adjust back to life in the
office?

A new VanderKlippe on two wheels! (Nathan)

I got big news today: my dad, who has talked about motorcycling for years,
got his licence and, at last word, was looking at a bike to buy.

Congratulations, dad!

And once you're comfortable riding, ship it out west. I've got some roads
I'd love to show you.

Farewell to the tope (Nathan)

Two things I discovered in Mexico:

1) Mexican stop signs. Enough fodder for a few jokes right there. More like
yield signs, unless they happen to stand in front of dudes with guns, which
they often do at highway mulitary checkpoints (most of which we were,
happily, waved through). I happen to like the Mexican stop sign, though. No
one ever ran one - that we saw - when other traffic was around. But why
stop for no one? I think it's an efficient system.

2) Mexican speedbumps. These, unlike the stop signs, are deadly serious,
and not at all optional. The country is littered with them, likely because
they provide the only effective method of speed control. But they like to
lie in wait for the unsuspecting. With very few exceptions, they are
well-marked. But they still have a habit of sneaking up on you. And if
you're not careful, they are big enough to make you bottom out (which I
did, several times) or fling you from your seat (which I did not,
thankfully). Either way, they are enough of an annoyance that they made me
want to get out of Mexico, which we did two nights ago, lane-splitting our
way (slowly and safely, of course), to the front of the line.

Entering the U.S. I was actually thrilled to enter a relatively tope-free
land - tope being the Spanish name for speedbump (it probably also means
"extraordinary nuisance").

The excitement lasted about 45 minutes, right until the moment we turned
onto the street where friends of ours have a house we crashed at. And
there, alas were more topes. When it comes to speedbumps, there is no
escape.

Thursday, April 15, 2010

Ft Bragg (Brett)

The wet noodle almost caused failure... This noodle is Nathans chain -
about to fall off. This means serious issues if it fails on a turn...

Turns on HWY 1 - Nathan will discuss...
Let's say a lot.

We diverted to safety and got it fixed. The fix was easy for those who
know how to do it. For us - not so. I think we both need to take a
motorbike class on fixing rides...

Bullet dodged and we only did 410 miles today - 12 hrs of riding including
breaks... But the curves - oj yeah, Nathan will discuss this...

On a lighter note, talked w/ my kids and found out they have ski poles. My
goal is to get them to huck (I.e., jump) a cornice into a double black
diamond run @ whistler by the time they are 12. This means Buck has 8
years and Cedar has 6 years. I can't wait til I get back to ride @ whistler
w/ them in May - nothing beats spring skiing... And they are excited and
so am I.

We have the OR coast waiting for us tomorrow - can't wait. Portland is the
goal--then some fresh brew. I head N to Van and Nathan heads E to
Calgary...

The finish line is be4 us - we need to be careful to finish well and
safely...

Missing (Brett)

So we get off scenic route and hit 101 and Nathan is behind me... Then he
drops back... Well I need petrol and I think he sees me get off - nope he
goes right on by.

Maybe its Cali highway patrol car tailing him... Anyway. I fill up and
figure he's at next exit. I start driving and he's coming back towards
me... Augh...he doesn't have his phone on...

I wait then back track only to pass Nathan again. I get off and run quick
errand and then hop on freeway... Where is Nathan? And why are we passing
each other back and forth on this freeway?

Well, he's pulled over by side of road waiting for me...

The deal is if this happens the person who got off first WAITS for the
other person...

I get it now!

Wednesday, April 14, 2010

San Diego (Brett)

Made it across the border last night and we stayed at Matt & Mellisa's pad as we arrived late and last minute... no troubles at Tijuana... but another 500 mile day (tired)...
 
Not sure if you all heard but there is a Narco - Cop war going on in Tijuana...  I was told over the past few years 100+ cops have been killed.  The story goes that the President of Mexico declared war on drugs a few years ago.  The US backed him.  Well the Narco cartels didn't like this and then the battle errupted. 
 
Some friends of ours in San Diego thought we were crazy to cross at Tijuana but with the power of lane splitting and the toll road we were able to bypass 98% of the city and end up at the border with a wait of a few minutes. 
 
Todays plan:
Up I-5 to get pass LA Craziness.  Then cut over Sierra mountains and ride the coast & camp at Big Sur. 
 
Am looking to purchase crab or a whole fish for supper tonight over a camp fire!  Lets see what we find along the way.

Tuesday, April 13, 2010

the power of a name ¿Brett?

So Nathan mentioned that I was not feeling well yesterday...  one bright moment was when I was driving and started thinking about the power of a name...
 
Example 1
There are times in my friendship with Nathan where he needs encouragement of a gentle nature.  After all, it is written we should encourage eachother daily... however, there are times when I say the name - SALLY and he mans up and gets it done.  We were kayaking 2 days ago and he wanted to get back to shore but he was having trouble putting his paddle in the water...  A few SALLY comments gave him the proper motivation to move forward.  And for the record, his name for me is PRINCESS.  Sometimes I hear, PRINCESS, lets ride further or get up earlier...
 
A caveat to our female readers--yes I am a feminist. 
 
Example 2
I actually named my bike and the name caused me to laugh a lot yesterday.  ´Hopefully you all saw the movie Zombieland.  Well Woody Harrelson calls his side kick in the movie SPITFUK.  I decided that this was the name of my bike... yesterday I thought the name was brilliant and laughed for several hours at this...
 
Names are powerful...
 
 

In Cipro we trust (Nathan)

We're both sick. We crawled in to bed last night at 7, ordered room service fruit and rice for dinner (much of which is still left this morning; stomachs couldn't handle it) and were incredibly grateful that we sprung the extra $8 each to get a hotel room. The other alternative was sleeping on gravel or a concrete slab. Yesterday was spent in various degrees of discomfort. Brett has what my wife and I have, in previous travels, called "a** like waterfall" (it's one step beyond a** like river, if anyone's curious). I came pretty close to puking last night, and closed my eyes hoping sleep would ward off the pains.
 
Not a good place to be with more than 2,000 miles left to go, and no room for a day off. Brett has to be back in Vancouver on Saturday. I have to be back in Calgary on Sunday.
 
But salvation -- or at least, some temporary form of it -- has come in the form of horse tranquilizer-sized pills. Ciprofloxacin is medical wizardry. My wife and I discovered this in Africa, where we made the mistake of bringing only one prescription. That meant trading off -- first she on the 3-day regimen, then me. It's magic. It fixes a** like waterfall in a matter of hours. Just ask Brett. It's just before 7 a.m. and he's solid as a rock.

Monday, April 12, 2010

One more

 

More trip

 

Pix -- driving north

Riding the trip arc, downward (Nathan)

Too tired to type much tonight. Rode 519 miles today (835 kms). Some gorgeous scenery along the way -- desert, then bright blue water along white sand beaches. Spent a good three or four hours riding into a headwind, which got stronger as the day wore on. By the time we arrived in Guerroro Negro, it was blowing hard enough that I parked into the wind, for fear that the bike would get blown over. It didn't help that some illness is making me feel cold, even when it's 30 degrees outside. Don't know if it's sun or heat stroke from yesterday, or something we ate during the epic four-course dinner that took us hop-scotching across La Paz last night (marquesitas followed by burritos; then beef tacos and dulce de leche ice cream). Either way, I was shivering my way across the desert with the sun still shining. Brett wasn't much better. He has picked up something that's left him requiring very frequent bathroom breaks. Luckily I brought some industrial-grade antibiotics that should fix him up quick.
 
Oh, and to make things worse, I discovered today that my bike, which I bought used, has a thirst for oil. It's not severe -- 4,000 kms and it doesn't need to be topped up yet -- but you never like to discover that your gear isn't working perfectly.
 
I've discovered that every trip has a narrative arc. We've been riding a pretty high wave for a long time now, but today was definitely a dip. We're not sure yet whether we'll drive to Ensenada tomorrow, a shorter ride, or all the way to San Diego. Could depend on how much that headwind is looking for a repeat performance.

The jeans came back the very next day (Nathan)

Just got an email that the jeans have magically been discovered. Unfortunately, the money inside of them was not so kind as to reappear. But it wasn´t that much, and I´d rather have the jeans anyway.
 
Many miles to go today. Big 800 km day. Onwards and northwards.

Sunday, April 11, 2010

Where are my pants (Brett)

No this is not a dirty post but it´s true...

So we come North from Cabo after dropping the clowns off...  we are trying to solve 2 problems... Brett wants to snorkel and Nathan wants to kayak... Solution - we do both...

So we are trying to rent kayaks and end up in this parking lot by this fancy building... we´re talking and they over hear us... "yes you can rent kayaks here"... so we do... this place is amzing.. 5·····

We have riding gear on so we need to put bathing suits on and paddle to snorkel zone... we arrange this and all is good.  We see fish and have fun... when we get back I tell Nathan I want to chill and read in the pool for the afternoon...

Time to leave - my gear is there but Nathan is missing his pants (passports, wallets and most of cash is in dry bag with us).  Yes they took his undies out of his pants and left them.  (Imagine how sexy he looked driving in his undies down the road and how thakful he was for the air flow...)

Well we are about to leave and the government minsiter from Las Pas pulls up and starts talking to Nathan about his bike... ¨how did you enjoy Las Pas¨?

Nathan shares his feelings about his pants missing and the $30 USD some one stole.  The minister is upset and all hell breaks loose...  We have guys in golf carts driving up and asking us who we last saw with his pants... we have security guards around us and hotel staff shuns us (we are obvious with motorcycle gear on)...

Anyway, this wastes much time - we get a hotel and crash.  Early AM and we got 400 or 500 miles to do tomorrow so we can get out of Baja and hit Cali. Nathan is missing his pants but his spirits are high and I loaned him my jeans (same waste but 4´´ higher).  Hopefully pictures will soon come...

BTW, which is worse - the Mexican driver or the South Cali driver?  Brett thinks the South Cali driver is LOCO...  Heading North back to Canada!!!!

Heading north (Nathan)

Morning in Cabo. Warm and humid outside. Clowns on the bikes, riding around town. We didn't do the official Cabo Wabo, but I think we did a pretty good job of coming up with our own, metaphysically speaking. Now we're heading north to La Paz. Hope to get some kayaking in today.
 
Oh, and the bet? You make up your own mind who won: Brett seemed to think Patch Adams the clown was in Dodgeball. I said no. We bet something on it, which I clearly won (in case you needed help making up your own mind).
 
The only problem: I can't seem to remember what we bet.

Saturday, April 10, 2010

The Crazy Clowns (Brett)

Can you believe that Nathan lost a bet to me about the clowns tonight?  It's true - there is a clown conference occurring in Cabo - starting tomorrow... Yes, Patches O'Houlihan is appearing here tomorrow.. the guy from DODGE BALL the movie... yes Nahan pay me my money...
 
Tomorrow we are supposed to wake @ 7 to take the CLOWNS on a motorbike ride around CABO...  had an amazing interaction w/ the head clown on meeting the needs of the poor and needy... she embodied so many of the ideas of Christ... I told her this. All and all and amazing late night chat over a cigar w/ a lady who is 30 years older than me on the meaning of life and service...
 
Oh yeah - we are supposed to take her clown disciples for an early AM ride around Cabo... should be interesting... Maybe we can get them to make us one of those blow up baloon dogs to tie onto Nathan's bike???

P.S. (Nathan)

Remember that crazy clown Robin Williams played? Patch Adams. He's staying at our hotel tomorow night. Some other clowns -- part of a contingent of 37 -- are already here. I learned how to spin plates on a stick tonight. Clowns in Cabo! Mucho loco!

Cabo!

Crisis! (Nathan)

It may be worth briefly relating this tale from today: it is hot. Very hot. The sun is beating down. We are three days into Baja and we have yet to see a cloud (that came later today). We pull over, 20 kilometres outside of La Paz, our waypoint before the final push to Cabo today. We get gas after a long haul through the desert. Suddenly, Brett has a crisis. He is mysterious about it at first. He has a problem, he says, that he needs to fix. Something is leaking. I begin to worry. Is it gas? Is it oil? Brake fluid? Coolant All of these things could seriously hurt our trip. And as we discovered when we met the intrepid B.C. dirt bikers (see below), we know nothing about either zen or the art of motorcycle maintenance. By which I mean to say, if something goes wrong with our bikes, something goes wrong with our entire trip. So, I'm worried.
 
But the worry is muted when Brett reveals the source of the leak. It is, he believes, the bottle of premium tequila he has purchased for our Mexican enjoyment. He has stored it in a drybag, and that drybag is leaking. I take a picture, because I think it's hilarious. He goes through his drybag, pulling things out one by one. There's something you should understand about Brett: he has a magic with packing. I throw my stuff into hardbags that look like mini-suitcases. Brett has hardbags, too, but he also has a bunch of stuff in canoe-camping drybags that he somehow lashes on to the back of his bike. By the time he is done, the lashing job looks like something one of those crazy cubist artists might have dreamed up. It is pure, unadulterated beauty. The problem is when you need something out of the drybags. Then the cubists start to go mad, and the whole thing unravels.
 
This is the problem Brett faced. He paid a 40 per cent premium over the Cuervo for good tequila. And it was leaking. He had to get things apart.
 
So he did. First came the tent, then the fly, then the pegs, all dripping, all quickly pulled out of the drybag and tossed on to the desert ground near the Pemex gas station. Then -- oh, what's that? The tequila bottle! Intact! Life truly is beautiful!
 
As it turned out, it was the remnants of last night's six-pack (or, to be more factual, eight-pack: everything really is better in Mexico) that had begun to leak. Catastrophe averted! The tequila is preserved!
 
We have a very strict no drinking and driving policy on this trip, so we did not do a celebratory shot. But if you felt North America briefly warm up this afternoon, it was the glow of Brett's happiness, secure in the knowledge that his tequila was there for his enjoyment at a later date.

Cabo ho! (Nathan)

There's this amazing feeling when you're driving down Mexico 1, the Baja Transpeninsular highway, and you crest a hill and find yourself staring at a horizon lined with turqoise. That colour, depending on where you are, is either the Sea of Cortez or that beautiful thing that happens when Cortez meets the Pacific. That's Cabo San Lucas for you, and that's where we are tonight. Half-way through the trip. At the destination. 22 degrees North, more than halfway to the equator from the homeland.
 
We made it!
 
It was a crazy day. We met some dirt bikers from Vancouver who are spending 3 weeks down here, riding the craziest, nuttiest roads you can find. We quite innocently thought we were hardcore. 7,000 kilometres -- or whatever it ends up being -- in 13 days is not for the faint of heart. But these guys are riding nothing but the worst, dustiest roads on the peninsula. We had fish tacos with them. They both work at body shops in Vancouver. Hats off to them.
 
This has been an epic trip, in just about every way. Last night, a search for beverages took us on a quest around Loreto, the town we camped out in. We couldn't find any place open, and began asking people where to turn. Then one helpful soul uttered two incredible words: "follow me." Suddenly, I felt like I was living the dream of being on Amazing Race. We followed him to an open store and bought what we needed -- with some extra for him. Then we headed back to camp, where we had a beer on the beach. Amazing.
 
This morning we woke up -- or, make that, Brett woke up -- before the sun rose. That gave me a chance to get pictures of the sky turning orange over the Sea of Cortez, with pelicans and seals silhouetted against it. Amazing. Such a privilege it is to be here.
 
The drive to Cabo was longer than we expected, and both hotter and windier. But we got here in time to catch sunset over the beach and dive in to the waters.
 
The only problem with Brett: he's not my wife. Were Mo here, this would be a romantic idyll. I guess I'll have to settle for a Cabo bromance.

Friday, April 9, 2010

Bombs, hippies and striking distance... (Brett)

After our early dinner, Nathan is not happy.  He says, "I don't think we can make it -- ýou will run out of gas'..." 
 
What he referred to is gas gap - 225 miles of no gas in the middle of Baja.  Aha, let's get a jerry can and fill it up so we are ok.  We found one and got 2 gallons (8 liters)--problem solved right?  As we were strapping this onto Nathan's bike I realized he's traveling w/ a bomb back there... liquid gas with a little plastic to protect him...  thankfully we made it thru the '"gas gap'' by buying gas for these dudes selling it on the road.  The extra insurance (the jerry can bomb) was not needed... we need to keep it as when we go back we will need this fuel...
 
Camping in Cativna was amazing - stars, stars and stars... we met this hippy dude who saved our A$$...  I mean he literally saved us as we were having our AM coffee and realized there was no TP in the can... He donated us a roll (also known as "SHIT TICKETS) w/ a catch - "you gotta drive down the road and find a biker and give him a can of red bull." OK, we agreed.  How are we gonna find this guy - well it's 1 road so I guess we'll stop at the first biker and offer him the Red Bull.  We met this crazy guy from Ohio who was peddling a bike up from Argentina back to Ohio.  We could only chat for a few minutes off the side of the highway and were sad that he wasn't gonna be in camp as his stories would be priceless.  I love the barter culture here.  The expats give good adice... Mexicans have been nice and we have had no incedents to date (thankfully)...  The recession is very obvious so we're careful where we go, etc. 
 
Tonight we'll be within striking distance to Cabo San Lucas - we may stay there tomorrow and try and get some snorkling and kayaking in on Sunday at La Paz?  It's not like we have had enough adventure - let's do some more!
 
The heat inland is quite draining on ones strength... it's epic riding along the coast and early AM the 2 hours before sunset... We are in this crazy schedule of rising early 6, eating quick breakfast (nuts, fruit and joe) and riding.  We stop mid AM for food.  We just had seafood around 4 for our 2nd mid day snack.  Then we end the day with another snack...  the food here is incredible and super cheap.  The seafood 4 PM snack w/ 2 home made lemonade's is $22 w/ tip for both of us.  Try finding that in Vancouver.
 
 

1,000 miles of Nada (Nathan)

First things first: the title of this post is blatant plagiarism. That's the headline Outside magazine gave to the drive down Baja. When Brett told me about it, I thought it sounded pejorative. I've changed my mind. It is, more or less, 1,000 miles of nothing. But it's an amazing nothing. Mile upon mile of narrow black asphalt crossing an ever-changing landscape -- from green rolling hills in the north, to winding cliff-laden curves on the coast, to broad open plains, to steep hills to the amazing desert. I find the desert especially impressive, because it's so foreign. It's every bit the stereotype of a desert: endless fields of strangley-contorted cactus, scrub brush and sand. It's even more impressive since we're here not long after a period of extensive rain. Even in the desert, it's green. That, and if you walk off the highway, the cactus are in bloom and there are flowers everywhere.
 
Even night time is gorgeous. We camped last night in the middle of nowhere, and whiled away the evening hours under a sky so starry it gave northern Canada a run for its money. I'm loving every minute of it. The only sad thing: we're nearly half-way done. The days are flying past, and once we get to Cabo tomorrow, we'll turn around and head straight back up the same road. Of course, we hope to get a margarita and a kayak paddle in first.

Thursday, April 8, 2010

More pix, including the epic fall!

Wind, Hospitality and Sand (Brett)

We entered Mexico early figuring that the bad guys in Tijuana would not be awake yet... it turned out to be true.  Border crossing was uneventful except my passport is due to expre at the end of the month...  I got lectured on the need to fix it with a new one and promised I would not be in Mexico more than a week...
 
We are hading to Cativna tonight then may try and do 625 miles tomorrow to hit La Paz... let´s see how it goes.
 
The wind can sure push the bikes around... it´s kinda like being in a kayak on a windy day... I was passing a truck when a voice (guardian angel?) said, wait... I did and then the wind and the trucks wind displacement hit me... quite the shock... recovered smoothly and finished accelaration around the truck... was happy that I listened and then finished up accelaration around the truck. 
 
I was amazed at the hospitality Jeff and Ann gave us.  There is this passage in Matthew 25 where Jesus commends people for providing, food, drink, shelter to others...  We came off the road yesterday tired, hungry and in need of rest.  We had a curry, saphron chicken feast, soaked our cares away in the hottub, excellent conversation and a goods night rest.  THANK YOU!!!!
 
Nathan asked me if I wanted to go to the beach.  Challenge: ride the road covered in sand for a few hundred meters to get to where the beach begins...  All was going well til the sand kicked my tire to the right towards deeper sand instead of to the left where it was hard packed.  Next thing I know I am laying on my side... slow speed impact (2 mph).  No damage to bike or Brett,
 
On a positive note, Nathan is finally starting to slow down and enjoy the ride (journey) instead of being ruled by the clock... I think this quality will continue to grow in him...

Baja pix

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Day one (Nathan)

Last night's conversation:
 
Me: "We should get up early, say 6 a.m. or so. It's going to take us forever to unload the bikes and get going,"
Brett: "No way. 6:30 at the earliest. I'm lazy, and I need my beauty sleep."
Me: "6:15"
Brett: "Ok, if I must."
 
Fast-forward to this morning, 5 a.m.
 
Brett: "I'm awake. Let's go."
Me: "How about another hour."
Brett: "No."
Me: "15 minutes?"
Brett: Doesn't respond. Instead, gets up and starts to move around. Which, given that we were sleeping in the back of a 16-foot cargo van (in the name of saving money and ensuring adventure), meant that I had to be up as well.
 
Which, it turned out, was for the best. It did take us forever to get going. We managed to unload the bikes smoothly -- no tumbles this time, and we were smart enough to pull up to a ramp so that the angle wasn't as steep -- but repacking and refuelling took a while. We hit the road at 7 a.m. We knew where to go largely because, as we discovered shortly after pulling in to the Penske rental centre, we were parked a good 10 metres from it. We probably would have had a more restful sleep had we brought our sleeping bags into the highway centre median. Which is to say, every time a transport truck passed, it felt like it drove over our heads. A restful night it was not.
 
But it did get us up early, and that ended up being a virtue. Big Sur was as spectacular as it was billed: the bright blue ocean surging up and down, the great white rollers crashing into shore, the steep cliffs and perilously sharp corners, the rising sun glaring in the rear view mirror, the impossibly green slopes, the beaches jammed with sea lions, the sign that warned -- make that advertised -- 74 full miles of winding road ahead. It was an amazing day. By the time we pulled in to San Diego at 7 p.m. -- that's 12 hours on the road if you're counting -- we had experienced California's tasty Mexican food, its remarkably expansive fields, the interstate nightmare that is Los Angeles and the shoreline magic that is the Pacific Coast Highway. As we pulled in to our destination in San Diego, our odometer clicked just over 500 miles. That's over 800 kilometres, most of it not on freeway.
 
It was a big day. Tomorrow, Baja California. We're planning to leave early. But Brett has a proper bed tonight, so who knows when we'll hit the road. Either way, I don't doubt it will be fun.

The pre-motorcycles (b)

 

The pre-motorcycles (a)

 

And finally, pix from the motorcycles (c)

And finally, pix from the motorcycles (b)

 

And finally, pix from the motorcycles (a)

 

More trip pix (b)

More trip pix (a)

 

Big Sur (Brett)

The sun rise at Big Sur made it worth while. Yes we're riding and its
Epic--as good as a powder day!

Pictures and stories to come

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

In search of rain (Nathan)

I never thought I would find the sun so hard to take.

But picture this: it's shortly after noon in the north part of Washington
state. The sun is out, the coastal waters are calm and it's beautiful
weather for a motorcycle. There's only one problem. You've already spent a
small fortune to book a cargo van so you can avoid the hurricane you
expected to find. What to do?

We had the option of cancelling the van, for a fee. But we decided to hold
onto it, even though we felt awfully dumb heading out onto the freeway in
the sunshine. We felt slightly less dumb when the first grape-sized drops
smashed into the windshield a half hour later. And we felt even less dumb
when we passed through periods of torrential rain so heavy that at one
point crews closed off a freeway lane because it was flooding. That was on
the way to Portland, where we arrived last night to a bitter cold, steady
drizzle and the warm feeling of having made the right call.

This morning: further vindication. The rain fell for hours, and it was
cold.

Then we hit Medford. It's an Oregon town 35 miles north of California, in
that part of the coast where the lush forests and verdant sheep pastures
give way to the high plain, scrublands and snowy hillsides. Medford, it
seems, is rain's Waterloo. For us, it brought many frustrated questions.
Most prominent aming them: should we ditch the truck and ride? We had over
700 kms to go to Monterey, but the weather was finally good, the scenery
was great and even I-5 had become a twisting paradise for two wheels.
Better yet, Penske said we were free to drop the truck wherever we wanted,
no extra cost.

We decided against it. It's sunny now, but only for a few more hours - and
a few hundred miles on the interstate at night didn't seem worth it. It was
a decision based on logic. Still not sure it's the right one - after all,
we could be riding. This is the weather and the scenery we came to find,
and we're passing it all by inside a gas-hog of a van. That, and we've
suddenly become an object of ridicule. We got this email not long ago from
a friend:

"Hey you bums,    From what I can tell, your driving 1400 miles of your
trip in the comfort of a truck.  Dump that thing at Sacramento and drive,
man!  It can't be that cold and rainy all the way down California."

For what it's worth, Doug, we're stopping just on the other side of
Sacramento. That, and we're only driving 1,000 miles.

Yeah, that's pretty weak. But so is taking potshots from the comfort of
your office chair.

Loading (Brett)

Not sure if you've ever driven a 500 pound motorbike up a ramp into a truck
that's 4 ft off the ground. Interesting experience. Key - don't stop on
the ramp as there is no place to put your feet down... I saw this and
started coasting up the ramp - then gave her some gas to get in--worked
fine.

I drove to our meeting spot 5 miles away...
.
Putting Nathans bike in was an experince. He looked at the ramp and said
'I'm not sure I can ride this'. He wanted to move my bike.. I undid the
straps and moved it... Then I had to move the truck so he could get a
better angle... I heard a loud 'smash' - got out and my bike was on its
side. Hmm, why did I move the truck w/ my straps untied--not my most
brilliant moment... No worries - thank you Givi crash bars. We picked up
bike and tied it down.

Nathan tried to ride it. I yelled 'put a helmet on' - and he looks at me
like I'm a retard.... He stops right before the ramp so he can walk his
500 # bike up w/ help... We get 1/2 way up - the truck is 4 ft off the
ground and he can't reach the motorcycle handlebars... "Stop - its gonna
fall off the ramp." He locks the front brake and the bike slides back down
the ramp.

Nathan manned up and rode the ramp - putting his left foot 6 inches from
the back of the gate (helmetless)...

we then tied em down - checked later and there was a little rubbing so we
tied it down again...

Lots to learn.

Monday, April 5, 2010

The French Press (Brett)


I was trying to figure out why my gear wasn't fitting into my 40L bags yesterday…  part of the issue was I put all the clothing in a big plastic bag to keep it all dry and air got in the bag taking up more space.  Yep, drybags are supposed to be water proof – but when it comes to long distance travel it's always good to have a back up plan to keep gear dry…  Other issue is that I'm not a believer in this 'light weight' packing strategy.  Those of you who have traveled with me always admire how I'm able to strap on extra pieces of gear to my main pack…  I think this trip will still be the same.

 

Now, I was looking at essential items like my 'backpacking French press' that seems to take up a decent amount of space (holds 32 oz) but is considered survival gear along w/ a ½ pound of gourmet coffee…  If memory serves me, much of Central/South America is a fan of instant coffee.  Why they don't go to the trouble of making a real cup of coffee boggles my mind since they grow lots of coffee down there.  Regardless, I want to keep 'Cranky Brett' away from Nathan and a nice cup of Joe in the morning is a great strategy to ensure we have peace and shalom on this trip.

 

Hopefully, this picture will come through…  this may actually be my first 'light weight' travel experience…

D-day (Nathan)

There's nothing like a 3 a.m. wakeup call.

Early morning start from the B.C. interior. Five hour Greyhound trip
(or longer, if Greyhound lives up to its reputation for timeliness),
then onto the bike at last. The weather, of course, is clearing up -
not so much for today, but definitely for the next few days. Maybe we
should have sucked it up and just rode. Too late now, though.

Kamloops for a few more minutes, until we pull away. Tonight,
Portland, if all goes well. There will be plenty of wood to knock on
this trip.

Sunday, April 4, 2010

And the earth shook (Nathan)

I like to think Baja was rolling out the welcome mat.

There has apparently been an earthquake, magnitude 6.9, in Baja. We're
nowhere near yet, but we'll be down there in a few days. Let's hope
the damage isn't too severe. Good thing we have bikes capable of some
off-roading, in case the roads have been shaken up.

One day before we go. Plans are falling into place. Brett is
discovering that a motorcycle is not an SUV, and he can't bring the
kitchen sink. My bags are pretty well packed, and they are kitchen
sink-free. Bus to Vancouver tomorrow, then the Easter lines at the
border. Lots of variables out of our control, but the long road
awaits.

Can't wait.

Saturday, April 3, 2010

Decision made (Nathan)

This motorcycle trip, brought to you by . . . Penske.

With the forecast not looking much better, we've decided to skip out
of the rain and head for the sunshine. We'll be picking up a 16-foot
Penske cube van in Bellingham and driving 1,600 kms to Monterey
California. Monterey has the dual virtues of being both the start of
the Big Sur coastline and the start of the warm weather on Sunday,
when we plan to hop on the bikes and start the trip in earnest.

The score so far--

Pacific Northwest weather: one.
Penske: one
Us: zero

This was one battle I was happy to lose.

Friday, April 2, 2010

Where there's smoke (Nathan)

Day one down, and I'm glad I was on four wheels. Beautiful but cold drive across the Rockies to Green Lake, where my wife's family has a little interior B.C. haven that I was lucky enough to marry into. I'm here for a few days with Mo, who I'm not seeing much of these days, between work travel and the looming motorcycle trip.

Almost got stopped on my way out of Calgary by a massive grass fire. I told they closed the highway soon after I passed by, madly swerving as I tried to take pictures. I think it's safer to text and drive than to snap and drive.

Mo came up from Vancouver by Greyhound. She made it head intact, but proved that public transit is probably a more reliable source of adventure than anything a couple of guys on motorbikes can dream up. Between various bus swaps, delays and all-around administrative stupidity, she completed her five-hour trip in seven hours, including one spent outside with small children in the cold, unprotected from the elements. I slept in the Kamloops Wal-Mart parking lot while I waited. We finally made it to the cabin at 4 a.m.

Only a couple more days left before I leave for Baja. My pre-trip jitters, which you'll find painfully documented below, rubbed off on Brett, who made some calls and booked us a cargo van. We're hoping to duck out of the Pacific Northwest rain on the way down, with hopes of sunny skies so we can return up the coast in a week or so. It's going to add a fair bit to the cost of the trip. Then again, pneumonia probably isn't cheap to fix in the U.S., either.

For now, though, it's wine by the gas fireplace and that amazing view of the frozen lake, which is now a brilliant white after a heavy snowfall earlier today. It looks like a white sandstorm on the other side right now as the wind scours off the fresh stuff. Any trip that starts at Green Lake can't be all bad.

To Truck or Not to Truck (Brett)

It was Good Friday - 12:01 AM and I was sitting in Vancouver watching the cold rain come down.  After reading Nathan's post - I couldn't help but consider what it would be like to ride 2-3 days in the 40 degree Fahrenheit rain on the way to the Mexican border.  Would that be fun?  After contemplating the pro's and con's--I came to the conclusion that only pros are 'bragging rights' that we rode it both ways (ego) and that we save a couple of hundred bucks on gas/rental fee's...  The con's list was long and included concerns for personal safety, not getting sick, being in a rush to cover mileage and missing sights, visibility in the rain, etc.

After consulting w/ Nathan we decided to rent a Penske truck for the 1 way drive from Bellingham WA to San Diego. 

The plan: tie the bikes in the 16' truck on Monday April 5th and head to Portland for the night.  I should mention that Nathan is getting up at 4 AM on April 5th to start his trip to Vancouver where he should arrive around noon.  This night, we'll recover in a nice hotel and then head off on April 6th for San Diego.  We're planning on sleeping in the truck next to the bikes on April 6th (hey we have the camping gear).  We're hoping to hit San Diego on Wed April 7th - drop the truck off and head across the border in the afternoon to explore Northern Baja.  The current plan involves us riding down to Cabo San Lucas and then driving back... we're unsure if Nathan can make it back to Calgary or if the mountain passes will be closed due to snow and ice.  We'll figure this part out later... right now, we just need to get down there!

Here's the map showing the first leg of the journey (it's pretty cool that it also shows all the volcano's we drive by... Let's hope Mt Baker doesn't blow anytime soon as if it did we'd say goodbye to the Mt Baker Chalet and some of the best pow riding in the Pacific NW)



Thursday, April 1, 2010

Going the Distance (Nathan)

Maybe I should stop looking at maps, too.

I've been crunching the numbers on our route. I knew it was an ambitious trip. There are a lot of kilometres between Vancouver, which is just north of the 49th parallel, and Cabo, which sits at 22 degrees North. That means we're driving more than halfway to the equator -- then back.

Weather could get in the way. Equipment problems could get in the way. Aching bodies could get in the way.

Will we make it? I have no idea. I've never done anything like this. The furthest I have ever taken a motorcycle in a day is 525 kilometres. I was pretty sore then -- and that's about the shortest day we're contemplating on our trip. After all, 8,000 kms in 13 days makes for an average of 615 a day. If it's closer to 9,000, which it could be once we take into account twisting roads and side trips, we need to average nearly 700 a day.

There will be no rest for the weary on this trip.